The story of a 240-year-old sweet shop that makes Turkish Delights fit for a king
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Remarkable Living
The story of a 240-twelvemonth-old sweet shop that makes Turkish Delights fit for a king
In 1777, Bekir Effendi began creating mouth-watering lokums (Turkish Delights) that were introduced to the Ottoman Palace. Not long later on, he was appointed Chief Confectioner to the Sultan, and the remainder nosotros shall say, fabricated history!
Haci Bekir has been around since 1777. (Photo: Freestate Productions)
02 Feb 2022 06:30AM (Updated: xvi Aug 2022 03:34PM)
Run into 30-twelvemonth-erstwhile Leyla Celalyan, the dominate of Haci Bekir, a five-generation confectionery that has been making traditional Turkish sweets since the days of the Ottoman Empire. "Information technology'southward the oldest family business in Turkey and the nature of the business organization is nearly happiness and spreading happiness," she enthused.
While its known for its diverse range of traditional candies, its star item is undoubtedly the Turkish Delight, which Celalyan believes her great grandad, Bekir Effendi, invented.
As the Royal Palace's Primary Confectioner during the Ottoman Empire, Effendi had the privilege of travelling around Europe to promote the Ottoman culture and its cuisine, while discovering new cooking techniques and innovations.
Around the early on 19th century, when cornstarch and refined carbohydrate were introduced, he altered his original recipe to include these new ingredients, which created the singled-out chewiness in Turkish Delight that's loved by all. This remains in the same recipe the family uses today, i they have kept hush-hush for generations.
"It wouldn't be fair to call him the innovator of Turkish Delights, since it's an anonymous recipe, but he is the inventor of the modernistic Turkish Please that we're producing and eating right now," she affirmed.
The Turkish Delight or "lokum" is a small-scale, jellied cube fabricated of cornstarch and sugar, dusted with icing saccharide to forestall the cubes from sticking together. It can either be flavoured with rosewater, lemon and others, or come with fillings such as pistachios, hazelnuts or walnuts.
"The nigh pop sweet would be Turkish Delight with pistachio – the nearly classic. Turkish Delight with rose also has quite a number of fans," shared Celalyan.
A good Turkish Please shouldn't exist cloyingly sweet that it torches your pharynx, and it should be soft and chewy merely non stick to the teeth. Haci Bekir ticks all the boxes. "I'm super proud of it because nosotros're doing everything to keep the taste the same. We don't ever stick to a standard recipe considering ingredients change, the climate changes. Simply the hole-and-corner is the confectioner's control," she attested.
The flagship store is in Eminonu, its original location for the past ii hundred years – a prime example of a heritage business that has endured the test of fourth dimension. "During the Ottoman Empire, this location was really important because it was close to the palace. All trading was done hither likewise every bit information technology was close to the old trading harbour of Aureate Horn. It was an of import identify and is still an important neighbourhood," she said.
Although you can purchase Haci Bekir'south succulent treats online, or even observe information technology at selected shops abroad, nothing beats savouring all the wonderful varieties of lokum in its home setting. This sweet shop has a charming former-world atmosphere. The original decor has been preserved, and they still utilise the same jars and equipment. While lokum is Haci Bekir's most pop production, the store also sells hard candies, nut pastes and halva, as well as biscuits, cakes and pastries.
Despite being founded by a human being, Haci Bekir's success is largely thank you to the business savvy of generations of women. "My grandmother was the only child, a girl who took over the concern. So came my aunt and my mother. Now I'k here so information technology's a prissy thing to take. Haci Bekir is such a masculine and traditional name but when you lot look at the company, information technology's been more often than not females at the caput," she shared.
For Celalyan, growing upwards watching the women in her family manage the business was something she aspired to do. "I had a dream childhood! I can say that because I was surrounded by candies and sweets all the fourth dimension. I barely reached the counters and the jars, but I was withal trying to serve sherberts or lemonade," she laughed. "Imagine working in a place where you can sense of taste every kind of sweet you're producing. It's amazing and at present I'm doing what I e'er wanted to do."
With five stores in operation in Istanbul, plus a thriving online business, there is a lot of pressure for Celalyan to succeed in her office equally manager. "I feel the pressure level all the fourth dimension because information technology's a company that'south survived for 242 years, that includes ii world wars, many civil wars and economic crises. The challenge at present is staying relevant and adapting to the needs of the customers," she said.
Partnering with established restaurants in Istanbul, like Pandeli, has too helped Haci Bekir to aggrandize its accomplish and diversify the business. "We have a close relationship with Pandeli as we're close neighbours in Eminonu. You lot tin find our products there, especially candied coriander, a typical Turkish dessert for afterward meals, plus our most famous Turkish Delights and hard candies," she shared.
With consumers getting more health conscious, Celalyan has had to create new flavours to cater to discerning palates. Constantly experimenting, she studies erstwhile local recipes and desserts from other cultures to see how they can be incorporated into her sweets. "Households are getting smaller and people are consuming less sweets. We are working on new stuff to go along up with a new generation," she revealed.
She's not afraid to try unusual ingredients like java, chilli and ginger. In fact, some of her more unique hard candy flavours include ones made with cinnamon, sesame, anise and violet. She also created a small sugar-free line for diabetics.
One of her biggest challenges is preserving Haci Bekir'due south heritage. "The older customers, they caution us, 'You're Haci Bekir. You lot're traditional, y'all can't be this modern'. But I think it's really important to blend mod elements with traditional ones to proceed the tradition alive," she affirmed.
Adapted from the series Remarkable Living. Picket full episodes on CNA, every Sun at viii.30pm.
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